Photographing Nightscapes from Twilight to Starlight
You can photograph an ordinary subject, and make it look extraordinary under beautiful light conditions. During the blue hour, this bridge looks magical because of the color of the sky, reflections in the water and the lights on the bridge. Waiting for the right moment can make all the difference in a photograph. I used a Nikon 24-70mm lens, f/11 at 15 seconds to capture the scene.
Starlight can create fascinating opportunities for photography, and is one of my favorite ways to photograph landscapes. I used a Nikon 14-24mm lens for the widest view and composed the scene so that the North star was positioned roughly on the rule of thirds to create a more dynamic composition. For stars, I generally use the widest aperture and expose for 25-30 seconds, adjusting the ISO as needed. For star trails, I photograph multiple images and stack them in Photoshop to create star trails. Click here to take the stars for a spin, a before/after of the stars as pinpoints and the stars as star trails. Want to read more about photographing nightscapes from twilight to starlight? You can read my article on the Topaz Labs Blog, and also more on how to shoot nightscapes on the Pro Insights page.
If you just want to have some fun and get creative with your night photography, try creating star trails as I did in the image above! Start with a photograph of stars as pinpoints of light, and use Photoshop’s Action Star Trails to swirl the stars into circles of light. The stars above were accentuated Topaz Labs Star Effects. Watch how I did it on this video with Topaz Labs, and create beautiful stars using Star Effects with your own images. Love Topaz Labs Star Effects? You can save 15% by using code deborahsandidge as the coupon code. Have fun with your photography, and in Photoshop too! ~ Deb
Hi Deb! Question about photographing stars and trails. Do you photograph in RAW or JPG? My first thought is that shooting in JPG will have faster write times that will decrease the time between exposures and you will end up with smoother lines after stacking the images.
Just wondering…
Hi Gary, really good thoughts about this! I shoot in raw, converting to tif to stack the images. The exposures are 30 seconds long, back to back given write time. I hope to experiment with a few different ideas soon, will keep you posted! There are a couple of scripts that are supposed to reduce gaps too, You can always create one long exposure. Let me know how it works for you!